In the name of God, the One God, the God of the Jews, the God of the Christians, the God of the Muslims,the God of the Hindus, the God of the atheists. The God of Adam, of Eve, of Noah, of Moses, the God of Abraham, of Isaac and Ismail, the God of Jesus and the God of Muhammad. The One God. The Most  Beneficent, the Most Merciful

Salaam/Shalom/Peace to everybody from the west bank of the river Jordan, what is otherwise known as the Occupied Palestinian Territories
You may have noticed from my previous emails and now that I have greeted in both arabic and hebrew -read a quote from a soldier – “arabic and hebrew are the only two languages in which the greeting is Peace yet peace remains as elusive as ever.”

I have been living in the West Bank for more than a month now. Based in Ramallah, I have traveled to most of the cities of the West Bank and some of the smaller towns as well. My time here has been divided between working with the Palestinian Red Crescent (PRCS – www.palestinercs.org), and meeting various other organizations and people – from activists to ambassadors, artists to anarchists, atheists to devout believers and teenagers to geriatrics even Olive picking, non violent protests, mural painting with kids and just meeting and speaking with people have kept me busy when I was not propofol pushing. Also, was interviewd on a local Radio station here – the only one in english to be broadcast to both Israelis and Palestinians in the hope of building bridges rather than walls. ( www.ramfm.net) Then met with the South African   ambassador to Palestine (not really and embassy cos Palestine is not a sovereign state)     I wana becum a diplomat when i grow up!

Ramallah is a mere 12km from Jerusalem yet it seems so distant. As you are ride in a bus through the huge checkpoint that is Qalandia between the annexed East jerusalem   and Ramallah with the 8m high seperation wall spanning out, off into the horizon on both sides of it, one feels as though one is entering another country. Ramallah is probably the most vibey of the Cities of the West Bank, its also (apart for the nearby Wall) is probably where you feel the Occupation the least. As one of the local activists, and now a friend, commented “Ramallah is the 5 star occupation.” Do not let this fool you though…. The people here still live under discrimination and Oppression – Many of the Palestinians living here have never been to Jerusalem or Al Aqsa, a mere 12km away! Not allowed to simply because they are Palestinian – its just less marked than elsewhere and easier to hide and get on with a “normal” existence here.

 I have used the words Occupation, Discrimination, Oppression already and for those reading this who may think its biased and a one sided view, I invite you to look at the facts, I invite you to learn more, I invite you to lunch when I’m back in SA (my treat ), I invite you to Palestine.. to witness it for yourself.                                              
All the time the frustration that, every day, the world chooses to buy the propaganda, the misinformation, the lies, the crude racism, the blatant stereotypes. Everyday, the world watches in horror here that it so readily challenged and disputed back home. Why? Because? Oh Really! Is that so? Well then, why don’t you come here for a day? Just one day and tell me again

Life under Occupation
Palestinians are forced to live like lesser human beings under the occupation. Checkpoints, random raids and searches, army invasions, the apartheid wall stealing land and hampering movement, settlements in the west bank and settler violence, israeli only roads are just a few of the daily hardships they have to endure. We have heard it all before, we have even become desensitized to it, reading it again and again in the newspaper – recently not even making the news anymore. Its only when one comes here and experiences it does one truly realise!l

“We live in fantasy, they live in denial. And one day we shall both come to reality”

Identity Crises
Many people are surprised when I say I am from South Africa. “South Africa? But your? *quizzical look* Then I start explaining how slaves from India landed on the east coast of Durban in 1820 and how Durban is full of us brown people and how SA is the Rainbow nation, only some are forever chasing after the elusive pot of Gold at the end of it whilst others take it by force. Okay, i don’t go into so much detail, often tiring at the Question and sometimes even offended by it – my own little xenophobia I’m struggling to suppress? or patriotism to the land of my birth? Probably bits of both. I have been called Paki, Indian, some spoke to me in Hebrew when I first landed in Tel aviv sporting a cleanly shaven face, some mistaken me for a local Palestinian – one old lady had a whole conversation with me in Arabic on the bus – was awesome! We failed to communicate but connected sumhow but what really took the cake was when sum1 once asked if I was from Sri Lanka!! Sri Lanka! I couldn’t have gotten that  much of a tan whilst here! 
Palesinians suffer different identity issues. Palestinians with Jordanian passports and Palestinian Ids, with Israeli passports and Ids, with Palestinian passports Ids, with refugee Ids, with no passport and ID! Blue Ids, allowing you access to Jerusalem, Green Ids that dont. Orange ones meaning something else! Much like the Dompass system here in SA. Discrimination, limited movement, control and humiliation a part of every day life here.
The past in the present. The present in the future? Most probably. The sinking feeling that today will be like yesterday, and tomorrow will be like today

Refugee Camps
I have had the opportunity to visit many of the Camps on the west bank : I regularly walked to the mosque in Amariy Camp in Ramallah which was immediately next to . the Red Crescent building where I stayed during my time in Ramallah. From the entrance to the camp one can see the pristine, suburban, ILLEGAL settlement perched on the hill above. h
Visited the New Ashqariya camp in Nablus where on the hill across from it gunshots    
rang out in the Baladna camp as PA forces battled with “insurgents.”
 The Dheisha camp outside Bethlehem from where BBC world interviewed my Palestinian friend live as she was showing me around.
currently living in one – Al Fara’a in the north between nablus and jenin
By far the most moving, was my walk, yesterday, through the Jenin Camp – the site of the Jenin Massacre in 2002. Bullet Riddled walls, demolished homes half reconstructed and posters of those martyred greet one as one walks through the camp. The camps are all similar – initially starting off as tents to provide refuge for those evacuated in 1948 from what is now Israel the camps have become contained little built up villages – Set up and run by the UN, on land rented by the UN for 99 years, with two UN schools in each camp, one for boys and one for girls, one UN basic health clinic and usually a couple of mosques. The population grows rapidly yet the resources cannot match.   
There is a refugee camp, four stories high
Its not allowed to expand outward, so it rises into the sky
Four stories
Four generations
Four decades.

Kids
The Kids of Palestine are adorable and endearing. There are loads of them! They are gorjis!  Families here are large with 7 children being the average. Its awesome! Children running around playing in Al aqsa mosque, playing football in the courtyard outside the Dome of the Rock,  running around and playing in the narrow alleyways in the camps. In fact the kids in the Camps reign supreme!
but spirits lift like the mist and throughout the day is the infectious joy of the children and in everybody a warm smile and a willingness to laugh. Remember the irony of the townships? How they were the happiest places you could visit

Experiencing the occupation first hand has taken an effect on my psyche a bit. Concern, frustration,anger, helplessness, infuriation, resilience … all in a days emotions  
My heart has broke … many times in fact. Many times when I see old women standing for hours at a check point whilst insolent young israeli soldiers chat on their cell fones. My heart has broke when i walk thru the narrow alleyways of jenin refugee camp seeing the half built half destroyed homes, the bullet riddled walls, the pictures of those martyred. My heart has broke when I see young settler boys being abusive to old palestinian men.

The Spirit of activism
The resilience from the Palestinians that i have witnessed has been refreshing, they remain defiant against all the odds. The support from internationals has also been heart warming. Whilst the majority of people in the world get on with their lives, either oblivious or apathetic or perhaps thinking .. “ahhh thats sad… I wonder whats gona happen on the next episode of Heroes, or Greys Anatomy” the people i have met here helping the Palestinian cause have been inspiring. Students, hippies, businessmen, punks, grannies .. many from the US and Canada and other 1st world states all  sacrificing their time (and money) for a cause they believe in.                                
 “When you see a wrong, put it right with your hands; if you cannot do that speak out about it: if you cannot do that even then atleast feel bad about it, and that is
the weakest of Faith” Prophet Muhammad (S.A.W )
Sat at one organisational meeting in fact with an 18 year old that has the maturity of a 30 year old, bravery, insight and understanding all way beyond his years. Across the table from him was a 80 year old lady with the spirit of a teenager, the vigour of youth and the hearing of a 80 year old! both were American. I was inspired

Theres so much more I can speak about; the illegality of the occupation, the wall, the settlements, the human rights abuses, internal Palestinian politics (tho in the words Ash our benoni Braveheart “Its complex”) , regional politics, the upcoming failure of Annapolis (you cannot negotiate with somebody when they on the ground with ur boot on their neck suffocating their oxygen supply) All in the name  of security? Bollox! “Peace and trust is not created by building barriers,  . stealing land and treating people badly.”
Humiliation breeds contempt, which grows into hatred, which manifests as anger and that anger is sometimes acted upon.
One thing I must comment on though is the excellence of Palestinian hospitality. The phenomenal hospitality. The humility that comes with being made guest of honour at a meal where the family can barely afford to feed themselves. Poor here (tap your pocket) Rich here (tap your heart) How often the converse is true in many of the western countries, many muslim countries too, and definitely back home as well.

It has been 5 weeks since I left South Africa. Left the land of my birth. Left my family, my home, my friends, my job. Left stability and security. Left freedom of speech, of movement… Left freedom. Many of the simple things we fail to appreciate until they are gone. The people of Palestine still hope for these liberties, they still strive for these necessities and will continue to struggle, and die, for their freedom.  

Most have wondered why I chose to come here, many have asked, I too on the odd occasion, asked myself… Why? Through these writings I hope to have answered some of those Questions. More than that, I hope to have encouraged others to also leave their comfort zones and search, struggle, strive, seek and ultimately Serve. To  always strive for self improvement, strive for excellence, strive to encourage good and forbid evil  

“Let there arise out of you a band of people inviting to all that is good, enjoining what is right, and forbidding what is wrong: They are the ones to attain success” Quran 3:104

When the stones of Jerusalem become more holy than its people, doesn’t it lose its holiness? Jerusalem – East side story (2007)  A film by Mohammed Alatar

I leave Palestine this week, inshaAllah, to continue with the rest of my journey.
Shukran, ilal liqaai (till we meet again)

Mohamed

P.S
For the medics
Some anecdotes from some of my experiences at the hospitals here
The risk of contracting HIV here is as likely as the Israelis pulling out entirely from Palestinian occupied territory – syringes are re-used, gloves are almost never used by the anaesthetist -not even during spinals! I saw it! Paramedian approach, a quick webcol wipe and IN. This guy was really experienced and hasnt had any major complications btw.  Gas anaesthesia maintenance is as rare as Israel obeying international law – occasional propofol top ups is the order of the day. sometimes its TIVA without a syringe driver.. some white muti added to the drip and titrated. Ive seen it and it works, and seems perfectly safe! I must admit that the medical service here tho is excellent considering the resources available, and the conditions which prevail.  Oh and one other thing.. in most theatres, its the anaesthetist whos the boss not the surgeon. the surgeon is a mere technician hehe

For the Boys
Yessss, Palestinian women ARE attractive! Fair skin have all, good features have most, and light eyes have many! along with the modesty, they very attractiv I must admit tho that I am yet to see an attractiv older palestinian woman. Which begs the Question… do they all just leave, or just fade quickly?  x

the excerpts in italics are from the Silent Minaret) by Ishtiyaq Shukri)    

Stop merely existing, LIVE, or you will cease to exist

Salaam/Shalom(Peace) to all from Al Quds – The holy lands of Jerusalem.

I arrived in Jerusalem on the afternoon of Monday 9th October 07 – finally! Just about a year on from when I first made attempts. (notice the plural – blerry Jordanians!)

Jerusalem – What a city! Some 3000 odd years old. A land that has been sought and fought over many a time; that has seen many different kings, leaders, empires and dynasties. A land in which many a prophet preached, resided and was laid to rest. Each empire, prophet, ruler and society leaving its mark on the city which can still be seen, and felt today. The city in which King David ruled over, King Solomon spoke with animals, Queen Sheba was invited to, in which the blood ran through the streets during the crusades, the City in which Abraham resided and Muhammad ( s.a.w) visited on his night journey. The history of this place is unbelievable! The present disputed; and the future uncertain.

I travelled the one hour journey from Tel aviv to Jerusalem by bus. Security is tight with alot of checks and stops. Its common to see soldiers, in full army gear, armed with kalashnikovs roaming the street, in buses, in malls, everywhere. Most are young Israelis probably in their late teens and early twenties – conscripted into the Israeli Defence Force (IDF) (Israeli Offensive Forces (IOF) is more apt) once they are out of school. One wonders how much training these kids have had and how liable they are to act inappropriately. Its always an abnormal situation when children have to join the army and fire assault rifles rather than go to university and get their neurons firing. A strange thing I noticed though, was the number of foreign jewish youngsters who come over to ”the Promised Land” to join the IDF and become incorporated into the jewish, israeli community.
A particular chap I met in the hostel in Tel aviv (as i wrote my 1st email) stands out and warrants a mention – a Canadian – his name was not worth asking – a lil younger than me, he had come over from Canada and wanted to join the army and be a Israeli and “kill me some arabs” – he didnt say the last part – not verbally anyways. This brutish, testosterone filled numbskull made me wonder about the future of our planet.

I have also met quite a few South Africans already. Some who are just travelling through, some who have come on pilgramage, church tours, some who have come to volunteer in the kibbutz. The kibbutz is an interesting concept.. a self sustained, agrarian community “dedicated to mutual aid and social justice”  – reminds me of the village concept encouraged by some Islamic scholars like Imran N Hossein and that punted by the hippy presentation I was taken to in Johannesburg about a month ago – looking to address issues of Peak power, sustainable living etc. Many youngsters come from all over the world, to volunteer in these communities. Sounds like a good concept..Perhaps We should perfect it?!

Jerusalem is awash with holy folk. Or holy looking folk rather. Lots of people wearing their religious garb.. the muslims in the kurthas and hats, the christians in their robes and the jews in their black suits and either the wide brimmed black hat or the yarmulke. There are alot of these traditionally dressed jews around the city – Prompted a brilliant business idea in fact.. I am yet to see one store which sells these black suits and hats. Surely we can import chinese and open up a chain store here! Whos in? They actually look quite funny to be honest… cos they even grow their side burns or side curls of hair like REALLY long – called the peyot i think.

Al Quds – The old City
The Old city of Al Quds is awesome! Enclosed by walls on all four sides, most recently fortified by Ottoman Ruler, Sulayman the Magnificent, in the 16th Century; the old city is only accessible through 6 or 7 gates. The city itself is not big, and quite densely populated. It is divided into Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian Quarters. The Old city has the haram sharif (Temple mount as it is referred to by the non muslim) on the south east corner. The Quarters (especially that between the muslim and jewish quarters) are distinct and one can clearly know when one has walked into a different part of the city. Narrow alleys and stone paved pathways with various businesses lining them and homes overhead make up the bulk of the city. The Jewish Quarter is newer, cleaner and more organised, less densely populated  but also more bland. It is the newest part of the old City having been reconstructed in 1967 after the 6 day war when Israel “reclaimed” East Jerusalem and most of the West bank from Jordan. There are advertisements all over the new city celebrating the 40 years since “reunification” of the city.

The first time i entered the old city, just after Asr salaah on the 26th of Ramadaan, through the Damascus gate, which is the main gate from East Jerusalem. The Muslim Quarter was extremely busy, with people coming to Al Aqsa for The night of Destiny (laylatul Qadr) and others purchasing things for Eid and iftaar preparations. The smell of freshly baked bread merging with that of kahwa (arabic coffee), the businessman shouting out their bargains, the decorations of Ramadaan that light up the muslim quarter and the excitement within me as i meandered my way to Al Aqsa all made for an unforgettable experience!
Al Aqsa
The haram sharif complex has a strong security presence – it not uncommon in fact to walk past 3 or 4 israeli soldiers and policeman every 50metres in the old city but particularly in the muslim quarter. To enter the complex, because i probably stood out as a foreigner, i had to prove that I was in fact Muslim by reciting some verses of the Quran. Once passed that security check, you walk onto the courtyard and the beautiful gold dome of the Dome of the Rock imposes its presence and dominates your vision. The courtyard was bustling with people and the atmosphere was awesome. Al Aqsa mosque itself was smaller than I had expected. The outside of the mosque does not really compare to the mosaics that decorate the Dome of the Rock. The large gold dome also seems to overshadow the more modest grey dome of Al Aqsa mosque. I entered Al Aqsa and the all the anticipation within me, the atmosphere surrounding me and the spirit of the occasion, made for a unforgettable and almost overwhelming experience. My first prayer in Al Aqsa was special – I prostrated where many great men have, many prophets, many rulers, where many long to but cannot. The Prophet Muhammad ( S.A.w) has said something to the effect that the me’raj of the believer is his prayer.
Holy Quran 17:1 “Glory to ((Allah)) Who did take His servant for a Journey by night from the Sacred Mosque to the farthest Mosque, whose precincts We did bless,- in order that We might show him some of Our Signs: for He is the One Who heareth and seeth (all things)..”

I spent my 1st week in the Holy Lands just wandering around Jerusalem, venturing only a couple of times into the modern West Jerusalem to find a place to watch the Rugby. In and around the Old city, there are alot of sites of historical and religious significance to all 3 monotheistic religions. Came across the Via Dolorosa – the Path of the cross – through which Jesus ( A.S) is believed to have received judgement, torture and then carried the cross through the streets. It ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, over Golgotha or CalvaryHill, which is believed to be the place where he was crucified and then resurrected. The Western, Wailing Wall which is sacred to the jews as the remnant of the Temple of Solomon ( A.S) where I spent some time in prayer and discussion with a Rabbi.Visited Mary (A.S) tomb, King David (A.s) tomb, Zechariah (A.S), then the tomb of the Patriarchs in Hebron where the tombs of Abraham(A.s), Sara (A.s), Isaac and wife Rifqa ( A.S), Jacob (A.S) and Joseph (A.s) are to be found. The latter 2 cannot be visited by muslims as they lie on the jewish side – the Ibrahimi mosque was split into a synagogue and mosque in Ramadaan 1994 after a jewish settler barged into the mosque and opened fire on muslims during prayer killing 49.
Theres so much to speak off and write about..

My time in Al Quds was largely spent trying to imbibe the atmosphere, culture and overall vibe of the City – wandering around and visiting places of significance and trying to engage people in discussion. The people here seem to have so much in common and culture overlaps somewhat, and even religion; yet they seem to use these as barriers and points of contention. Its saddens me somewhat, speaking to people, religious people who have taken common beliefs and made them radical to exert their divine rites to this holy real estate.
My spirituality had heightened but my pessimism for the future of this land has deepend. And I am yet to enter the Occupied territories and experience the occupation…

Mohamed

Alhamdullilah I have arrived, finally got here after 10 hours flying time, 6 hours of interrogation at the airport… they prob have all your names and numbers now…So if you get strange calls  

Went thru my bags, my ipod, my notebook and ALL the contacts on my fonebook.

Alhamdullilah tho, with the grace and will of the Almighty and your duahs, I have made it

Pervasive Paranoia

The air in Isra3L is tense. Paranoia is present on both sides. I still find myself wandering if they could be monitoring this email, looking over my shoulder when i walk down the street etc etc. 

Arrived at BenJY airport at about 10am this morning via Cairo. The airport is modern and efficient. They efficiently seperate the arabs, muslims or anybody else who has a suspicious pinky toe.. put you aside in a room with a television. The television is part of the torture cos instead of showing the bokke beat the fijians in the Quarter finals(which was live at the time), they painstakingly show some silly soapies with hebrew subtitles! Was a lil upset that i missed the previous nights upsets(crackers im sure) … with the kiwis and the wallabies out… the bokke should reign supreme and it now urges me to continously wear my springbok jersey until the web ellis is ours! besides laundry is a shlep!

inTerrorGayshin

A barrage of Questions followed, then waiting which i decided to use for snoozing, then more Questions, then more waiting, then more of the same questions by a different person, more waiting, more of the same questions and more from the same person in a different more intimidating backroom, more waiting, then the baggage search… everything taken out and comprehensively examined with plastic gloves. Could do nothing but seek solace in finding humour in it. more waiting. Then finally .. You free to go with an !sra3li visa in my passport! Guess im gona need another one if im to go for hajj! Why am i here, what i do, who i break wind with, how many times a day do i pray and where etc etc    Stick to your guns… im backpacking and touring and want to absorb the culture and history of this country  

 I did, however, have my first lunch in some 3 weeks sponsored by the ministry of defence. Knee jerk was to ask in a Riaad Moosa accent.. “Is this even halaal?!” then i figured .. what the heck… it must be kosher! Was sum non meat sub thingy .. thort about asking with a smirk if it was pork?! Sense prevailed over misplaced humour.

First Impressions

Tel Aviv is barely a century old, mediterranean seaside city with a modern, tolerant, laissez-faire attitude. Forsaking the spirituality of nearby Jerusalem for the stock exchange, and tradition for the latest fads, this modern, secular city concerns itself with finance, commerce and, above all else, fun. I need to get out of here soon!   Only got out of the airport after 4pm, so didnt get much of a chance to see the city.. the quote above is from lonely planet… my trusty travel companion for the next few weeks

The public transport system is extremely efficient.. havnt taken a train in a long while now.. more cosy than a mango flight! There seems to be a lot of young to middle aged people here and not as many children or older folk.. still trying to figure it out.. 

People seem quite modern though you do see the odd scattering of the orthodox jew in those black suits and caps and long hair and beards. The kids actually look kewt all dressed up like that.  On my flight here, there were a few orthodox jews, a couple of priests, some nuns, a church group from SA (this is the holy lands after all) and a sweet couple from the western cape who run a school for the challenged in strand. (rids.. they accept med drop outs )  

The Real Motive?

As i walked to my fate described above, i looked at the nuns dressed in black garb all covered from head to toe and the beards and a realisation crystallises in my mind (not sure if thats proper english but thats how it felt) Islams threat lies not in our garb, our beards, our devout praying, nor Islam as a Religion. The issue is not that they think we oppress our women or we are fervent in our prayers. That just doesnt make sense.. cos its much the same from them – devout followers praying fervently with beards and headscarves. So its not Islam as the religion or merely the rituals and dressing that we have reduced it to that poses a threat. Its Islam the way of life.. the ideology that is in stark contrast to the western(?capitalistic) model of life. I think if u strip away all the isms it boils down to one thing… MONEY!  … greed?! This is still a thort in evolution

 A very wise person once said… “Its all abt the money.. da da dum dum da da daa dum.. I dont think its funny”  

Travelling alone, is testing. Apart for the lonely planet as a trusty guide, one needs a strong conscience for company. Jewish Chicks are hot! no disputing that! lol People of the book? *smirk

Backpacker culture

I have checked into a cosy backpackers a block from the beach. Already met a few interesting people…

Meet David (my roommate for this eve) A 30 some odd american who apparently wanted to be a doc and did pre med. Was too lazy to continue and needed freedom from “the system” so came to Israel (to find a nice jewish wife i think.. did i mention.. jewish women here r hot! lol) and sumhow lands up in this backpackers. for how long.. im afraid to ask. Theres a weirdness abt this fellow. When he speaks, I am strangely reminded of Jack nicholson.. his eyes and mouth. but his weirdness is apart from that.

Meet Adolfo Rene Martinez (and another name i forget)  aka “Eddie” a mexican, a year younger than me, who has been travelling and working for the past 2 years! He travels.. runs out of money.. does odd jobs.. from washing dishes, carrying bags, tour guide in rome, setting up scaffolding etc etc to get more money and then travels some more. This guy is the dudE! Cheers to all those silly indian wanabee travellers who complain abt not having the money! or time?! “get a job, settle down, if you want you can marryyyyy … ”    

irrresponsible perhaps? nay, this guy has lived!! btw his name.. adolfo in english is adolf .. sends shivers down a few spines here *G* (hes also my roomate for tonight btw)

Theres a couple others like him.. a brit, a frenchmen and another doing a similar thin. apparently its very easy to find work here!  (Remem this for later)

backpackers r the b*mb.. i shudnt say this… backpackers r great!! so many interesting ppl and stories. Hotels r for yuppies. And married couples  So if u dont mind sharing ur dorm with a few others… its the way to go.

Also… i think backpackin was thort off as a concept before the advent of the trolley suitcase. A thort that comes from my aching back and shoulder muscles. it looks alot cooler but is just not as practical as just pulling something alonG!

Took a stroll out this eve, and come upon a mosque!! Hassan Beq Mosque … just down the street from my current digs. the only mosque in tel aviv im told. Had chai and sum delectable date biscuits in the courtyard with a couple of the pal3st!n!an arabs who are lucky enuf to have isra3li passports having being born in jaffa, and luckier enough to be sitting for itikaaf.

Whilst there.. a couple of the other musallees find a young man sleepin under a cloth on the lawn within the mosque. He is guarded, scruffy looking, grubby, defiant and perhaps a touch apologetic. A Filistine, im told, not so lucky to have gotten the piece of paper that allows him to work legit in israel. No work in filistine so forced to do odd jobs here. If police find him.. he will be locked up.. find him in the mosque.. and theres trouble there. (Remem what i said abt the work thing for foreigners earlier) My first soul stirring moment.   

I took a stroll along the beach promenade.. my thorts, conscience and creator more than enough company.  Reminds me a bit of Dbns beach.. tho i could just be searching.  Besides… ppl jog and cycle and lay on the beach at 9pm!  (or perhaps do more than jus lay? .. my myopia,both literal and figurativ, prevents me from commenting further)

in total security, no crime, no real threats. Perhaps even oblivious. 

A corn on the cob(thort of u zubz) and a fresh strawberry n banana shake from a quaint roadside cafe’ to drown my sorrow (not quite sorrow tho) already blowing budget today.. tomorrow i shall fast and save money!

Gona push on to Al Quds tom and hopefully the night of Decree in Al Aqsa.

Doesnt take alot of imagination to see why this place is so volatile and why the seeds for the end of time are sewn here and already beginning to sprout….  and I havent even been to Jerusalem yet!

In the Words of jack Nicholson…. “Why cant we all….. just get along” )

Thanks for all the well wishes and duahs. Will definately reciprocate, InshaAllah.

TakeCare

ilal liqaai.

Mohamed 

2006- Over a year later I was fortunate enough to travel to Palestine again, and I was unfortunately even more depressed! 

I lived in a refugee camp for a few days. When you hear refugee camp you probably think tents, dust and something temporary. But not in Palestine.   

Al-Fara’a Camp was established in 1949. After the Nakba, 750 000 Palestinians were expelled from the homes following the creation of Israel. For seven years, the camp consisted of only tents. The camp was meant to be temporary- people kept their bags packed and keys to their homes in their pockets. They were ready to return home at short notice.  Life in Occupied Palestine was difficult then, as it is now. Life in a refugee camp was even more difficult, and it has not gotten much better in the past 58 years. Where the tents stood, basic four walled homes replaced them.

Over the years, after nearly six decades and four generations, these became three stories high. One story for each generation born in exile, born as refugees inside Palestine itself.  The borders of the refugee camps are clearly defined and have not changed for the past 58 years. Camps are not allowed to expand outwards- they only go up. But so has the population. This has resulted in closely packed homes and extremely narrow streets.

There is no place for kids to play, run and have fun- but if you look up, just across the valley, the sun reflects of swimming pools. Kids in settlements have swimming pools and soccer fields. Kids in camps have narrow streets and tiny rooftops. The Apartheid Wall snakes through the West Bank, separating Palestinians from their land. Separating kids from schools and friends, farmers from their fields, the sick from medical assistance and thousands from the sources of their livelihoods.  

Even more Palestinian land has been confiscated by the Wall- for ‘security’ reasons. Look up, across the valley, on the other side of the Wall, on Palestinian land that has been stolen and you see fields being irrigated by water that has also been stolen from Palestinians!  The farmer can see this. He now has a tiny piece of land on which he tries to grow just enough so that he can put food on the table. He works hard on this land, struggling with barely enough water to irrigate his crops. While across the valley, crops are flourishing in the Israeli settlement irrigated by water redirected from seized Palestinian wells. Crops grown on stolen land, irrigated with stolen water, yet still easily make it onto the shelves of supermarkets in Sandton, Europe and even Benoni.  

And that same farmer, whose land and water was stolen, who now struggles to earn a living on a tiny piece of land, faces the soldiers, who live in the settlements, at the many checkpoints on a daily basis. The soldiers who live on a settlement built on stolen land, a settlement with nice palm tree lined tar roads, settlements with shopping malls, universities, swimming pools and soccer fields. The farmer gets delayed at these checkpoints for hours on end, and often his produce goes bad sitting in the sun. He rarely makes it to the nearby market to sell the little he was able to grow. Yet the produce grown on land stolen from him and irrigated with water stolen from him, makes it onto shelves all over the world.  

It is about time we began working with solidarity groups and civil society organisations around the world to respond to the call by Palestinian civil society for a global campaign of Boycotts, Divestment and Sanctions (BDS), based on building a non-violent movement of opposition to Israeli apartheid and occupation. 

We can no longer shut our eyes to the urgent crisis facing the Palestinian people and the obligations of the international community to end it. We need to be part of those working towards creating a new reality – based on justice, human rights and international law – to end the occupation and realise the inalienable rights of the Palestinian people.  

The just struggle of the Palestinian people WILL DEFINITELY see its proper end, sooner or later, with or without our efforts and sacrifice. We will see the destruction of the Apartheid Wall, the dismantling of all the Israeli settlements in Palestinian areas, the return of Palestinian refugees and the establishment of a Palestinian state with its capital in Jerusalem.

We, people of conscience, need to seriously commit ourselves to playing our role towards, God willing, this inevitable end.